A Taste of Franschhoek (2024)


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Escaping to wine country in the Western Cape reveals more than sophisticated vintages.

By Lauren Kramer

Talk to anyone who has visited Cape Town and they’ll get a dreamy look in their eyes when they talk about Franschhoek and their time in the South African winelands. A verdant valley surrounded by the Boland Mountains, Franschhoek is one of the world’s oldest and best-known epicenters for viticulture, thanks to its range of terroir and the rich soil on the flanks of the mountains, where the vineyards flourish.

We joined Escape + Explore for a day-long Franschhoek experience, commuting an easy 45 minutes’ drive from the city. Minutes after leaving the highway we were in grape country, passing acre upon acre of picturesque vineyards, many of them surrounding Cape Dutch farmhouses with thatched roofs, white exteriors, and strikingly beautiful architecture.

A magnet for visitors, the town of Franschhoek's prime offering is wine tasting, but there are also horseback rides through the vineyards, biking trails, and a main road filled with art galleries, boutiques, and sophisticated restaurants. Eager for some exercise, we grabbed a few bikes and pedaled through quiet country roads up a hill to Mont Rochelle, Sir Richard Branson’s 37-acre winery and boutique hotel.

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“When Nelson Mandela came to power, one of his first calls was to Branson,” says our guide, Jacqui Smith. “Mandela asked him to invest in the country, and Branson agreed right away.” One of his purchases was this Franschhoek vineyard and its farmhouse, which dates back to 1608 and offers five-star accommodation with sweeping views of the valley. We puffed a bit further up the mountain on the bikes, rewarded by heart pounding views of the mountains and vineyards below.

Franschhoek boasts over 200 wineries, so the hardest decision is choosing which ones to visit. We stopped at Le Lude for a tasting of its rosé wines, sitting in a glamorous, French colonial tasting room as we sipped, savored, and learned about Franschhoek's many microclimates and how they affect the constitution of the wine.

Wine has been a defining feature of Franschhoek since the late 1800s. When France outlawed Protestantism, French Huguenots fled the country. Some arrived by ship in Cape Town, settled in Franschhoek (‘French corner’ in Dutch), and began laying out the vineyards that exist today. You won’t hear a word of French today in Franschhoek, but the French influence lingers and many of the farms have stayed in the same families for generations.

Newer residents of Franschhoek have added their mark to the town too. One of them is Pigcasso, a pig who loves nothing more than to paint, generating artwork that’s made her famous. Her owner, Joanne Lefson, is an animal lover determined to rescue animals from slaughter and to educate visitors about the inhumane conditions endured by animals farmed for their meat. She created Farm Sanctuary SA in Franschhoek in 2016, and Pigcasso, destined to be a pork chop at six months, was one of her first rescues from the slaughterhouse.

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Lefson noted that Pigcasso destroyed just about everything—with one exception: some old paintbrushes that were in her pen. Curious to see what the pig would do, she gave it paint and a canvas. Pigcasso picked up the paintbrush in her mouth and began painting. Since pigs are colorblind, Lefson helped by choosing the paint colors, and with her marketing flair and the buzz created by many media outlets, Pigcasso’s work began selling for thousands of dollars.

Today the proceeds from those abstract impressionist artworks sustain the sanctuary, a bright, welcoming farm where visitors can feed the animals, peruse the paintings, enjoy a wine tasting, and even spend a night in barn-style accommodations.

In her senior years now, Pigcasso was in a deep slumber the day we stopped by, but her easel remains at the ready, and she’s still creating her unique artwork.

You can’t visit Franschhoek without stopping at Boschendal, one of its oldest and grandest wineries. We sat beneath the courtyard oak trees for a tasting of chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah, wines that have helped bring acclaim to Franschhoek and that continue to impress even the most sophisticated wine palates the world over. It’s easy to spend an entire day at Boschendal alone, because apart from the gastronomical delights — gourmet picnics, fine dining meals, wine tastings, and a farm shop, butchery, and deli — the estate also offers farm tours, bike rides, horseback excursions, and guided hikes on its expansive property.

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We ended the day with a riverside picnic lunch at Holden Manz wine estate. The picnics in Franschhoek are no ordinary affair — they are gastronomic feasts that come with wine, picnic blankets, cushions, and a selection of carefully curated treats. We ambled through the estate’s vineyards to the water’s edge, laid out our picnic blanket, and spent a glorious hour nibbling delicacies and sipping rosé as turtledoves cooed down at us from the tree branches. It was one of those rare, perfect days, we agreed, the kind that lives long in memory and lifts your spirits at the recollection of spectacular wine grown in a verdant valley that’s steeped in history and replete with passionate artisans and even a painting pig!


Don’t let the name fool you. The Winelands has plenty of opportunities for families and non-drinkers to experience. For touring with younger kids, swap out the mountain bikes Lauren used for e-bikes for a little help getting up those hills. Or go big and opt for a quad bike adventure between vineyards before stopping for a private chocolate tasting. - MJ Eraci, Designer

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A Taste of Franschhoek (2024)


Is it safe to walk in Franschhoek at night? ›

Safety at night:Moderate

Franschhoek is generally safe during the daytime, but it doesn't have an active night scene. As in any destination, it is advised not to walk alone late at night especially in secluded or less populated areas.

What makes Franschhoek special? ›

Franschhoek is a paradoxical sort of wine region that is currently enjoying great success, while at the same time struggling with its reputation. This is because it has become the tourist hotspot of the Cape winelands.

Is the Franschhoek wine tram worth it? ›

The Franschhoek wine tram is one of the best ways to discover the Western Cape's amazing wines. Set in the beautiful Franschhoek Valley, you get to travel between wine farms on an old-school tram, enjoying beautiful views and sipping on lots of delicious South African wines.

What is a popular way to enjoy the Franschhoek wine tram? ›

The Blue Route

Between these wine farms, there are a number of activities you can enjoy. Of these activities include cellar tours, picnics, high teas, chocolate pairing, olive tasting, boules as well as enjoying the food at the variety on offer.

What is the crime rate in Franschhoek? ›

Franschhoek has an overall safety rating of 4/5, with five being optimal. In 2021, the number of contact crimes in Franschhoek decreased by 39%, while the property crime rate decreased by 110% year over year, and total crimes decreased by 53% year over year.

Which is better Stellenbosch or Franschhoek? ›

Stellenbosch also caters to larger gatherings with numerous accommodations available. In contrast, Franschhoek offers a more intimate and personalized experience, with a strong emphasis on small artisanal vineyards operating on boutique farms.

How do you spend a day in Franschhoek? ›


Franschhoek is not just a celebration of wine and champagne, but it is also a haven of the arts, with world class galleries on offer. The galleries are all located in close proximity to one another, meaning that art lovers can take it all in while taking a gentle stroll through the quaint town centre.

What are the social problems in Franschhoek? ›

The Cape Winelands and the Franschhoek Valley, situated in a rural setting approximately 1 hour from Cape Town, is an area of both incredible natural beauty and, in contrast, crushing poverty and the attendant social issues such as illiteracy, crime, fractured family structures and substance abuse.

Do they speak French in Franschhoek? ›

Even though none of the local residents speak French, many of the street names, restaurant names and wine farms in the village have French names.

Do you have to book wine tastings in Franschhoek? ›

Wine tastings can be purchased at each wine estate directly. Passengers may dine at one of several restaurants on the tour. In order to avoid disappointment, we advise passengers to make lunch reservations at least 24 hours in advance of travel.

How many days should I spend in Franschhoek? ›

How many days do you need for Franschhoek? We recommend that you stay at least 3 nights in Franschhoek so that you can visit several wineries, take a nice hike and also relax for a while.

What is the best line on the wine tram in Franschhoek? ›

We think that the orange and purple lines are the best Franschhoek wine tram route. Here's why: A Beautiful Backdrop – These lines take you out of the valley and up into the scenic hills around Paarl. Rolling hills, fields of grazing cattle and distant mountains become the backdrop for the day.

Is there Uber in Franschhoek? ›

You can also now get Uber very easily from most vineyards around Franschhoek which may work out as the easiest option if you only want to visit a couple.

How long is the wine tram ride in Franschhoek? ›

The Franschhoek wine tram is an eight and a half hour adventure that moves between Franschhoek and Cape Town. By securing your booking, you'll ensure that you have sufficient resources for the day to cover your food and drinks.

Is it safe to walk at night in South Africa? ›

You should avoid walking at night — take an Uber instead — and don't flash your valuables. If you're driving, don't leave anything in your car — break-ins are common, particularly in the parking areas for Cape Town's hiking trails.

Is it safe to walk around Cape Town at night? ›

Is Cape Town Safe at Night? Walking around at night in Cape Town is only advisable if you are in a resort or a place full of tourists. Go in groups if you have to go out after dark; otherwise, avoid going out in the city once the sun sets.

Is it safe to walk around Cape Town Waterfront at night? ›

Most of the crime happens after dark, so even in touristy areas just try to avoid walking around at night. Walking around touristy areas like V&A Waterfront during the day is usually safe in Cape Town.


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